Last week I made the jacket of my dreams.
It needed to be boxy, not too cropped, not too long, lightweight, can be worn alone as a top, but roomy enough to be easily layered trans-seasonally.
I had this thick, textured black fabric that I’ve been saving for the perfect project– and this jacket was it.
My first step when I have an idea for a piece is to create a digital mock-up (CAD) in Adobe Illustrator to graphically visualize the image in my head.
I took a photo of my fabric and inserted it as a print– just to give some textured imagery.
When I start to create a pattern for a piece, I generally like to pull from existing patterns to easily translate shapes, construction elements, and specs.
I have a giant roll of basic woven fabric and used it to draft the jacket as I would normally with pattern paper and muslin.
(but that gets expensive yo)
To give the sleeves a more boxy and structured shape, I extended the sleeve pattern to add a dart in the elbow.
Next, I started on the body of the jacket. According to the measurements listed on the See & Sew pattern, following the size medium guidelines would result in the perfectly oversized fit I was aiming for.
I’m not even worrying about ironing the fabric– it’s a very rough first draft.
After a few neckline adjustments, I had my jacket body!
Buttt, those measurements were for the finished product– not including the yoke seam I wanted to add along the back.
So, I referenced the yoke on the McCall’s pattern to help me decide on the location of the back horizontal seam.
Then, I scribbled my seam allowance notes on the back pieces so I won’t forget to leave space for them when I cut the fashion fabric.
Time to sew the pieces together to make sure they match up~
A few more adjustments and it’s looking beautiful ❤
Now the collar…
I made a collar from the McCall’s pattern to see the sizing.
I rounded the edges and enlarged the first collar pattern to fit the specs of my jacket neckline.
This is so it would be slightly oversized to match the rest of the jacket’s proportions.
After cutting out the front closure strips, all of the pattern pieces were ready to start constructing the jacket in the fashion fabric.
Me not forgetting to leave seam allowances:
NOW, my favorite part: hammering in the snaps down the center front.
I love adding metal details to my pieces because it escalates the quality and assures that it does not give off that “homemade” vibe that I have worked very hard to overcome.
(peep the floating pocket flaps and split hem detail)
AND WE DONE.
The exact fit I wanted. Topstitched everything. Clean finishing.
Honestly so proud of this one :’))
(featuring a pair of my DIY’d jeans)
I can wear it as a jacket:
and a slightly more feminine top:
Designing, patterning, and executing high quality garments is my favorite thing.
want to will do this until the day I die.
S/O to my roommate Clarissa for helping me take these pics ❤
Even though times are pretty crazy right now, I am grateful to have time to rest, reset, and work on personal projects like this that I normally don’t make time to do.
Stay safe homies– I can’t wait to see you all (hopefully) soon and finally wear this jacket outside of my apartment!
With love always,